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Vintage
Sunglasses Shop - Rare &
Authentic Vintage Men's &
Women's Sunglasses
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vintagesunglassesshop.com
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Vintage
Ray-Ban Sunglasses: Aviator, Kalichrome, Ambermatic,
Leathers, Changeables, Caravan, Diamond Hard,
Wayfarer
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Ray-Ban
was founded in 1937 by Bausch & Lomb (B&L)
as a brand under which to design and manufacture
sunglasses which incorporated advanced B&L
lens technologies. The initial buyer was the
U.S. Army Air Corps, but it was Lieutenant
John MacCready who had the idea that would
change the face of sunglasses. In 1920, MacCready
returned from a balloon flying expedition
complaining that the sunlight had done permanent
damage to his eyes. He contacted Bausch &
Lomb to ask them to use their optical expertise
and technology to design sunglasses that would
provide complete UV protection while also
being stylish and comfortable to wear. On
May 7, 1937, B&L took out the patent on
the prototype which included "Anti-Glare"
lenses and construction of a lightweight frame
that weighed only 150 grams. The prototype
sunglasses were made of a gold plated metal
with 2 green lenses made of mineral glass
to filter out both infrared and ultraviolet
rays. Pilots in the Army Air Corps immediately
adopted them as did pilots in the other branches
of the armed forces. The "aviator"
style became synonymous with Ray-Ban, never
more so than when General Douglas MacArthur
landed on the beach in the Philippines during
World War II and was photographed wearing
Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses. Ray-Ban aviator
sunglasses featured dark, moderately reflective
lens in a shape that covered 2 to 3 times
the area of the eye, and they were popular
with both traditional wire ear stems and ear
pads as well as curved wire ear stems that
looped around the ears and secured the fit.
Over future years, this style of curved wire
ear stems on Ray-Ban sunglasses were also
referred to as Shooter and Outdoorsman sunglasses.
There
have been many famous Ray-Ban styles over
the years transcending Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses,
many coupled with new optical or frame advances.
As for styles, none became more aligned with
pop culture than did Ray-Ban Wayfarer sunglasses
designed by B&L optical designer Raymond
Stegeman and first introduced in 1952 when
their design was a revolutionary break from
earlier sunglass styles. According to design
critic Stephen Bayley, the "distinctive trapezoidal
frame spoke a nonverbal language that hinted
at unstable dangerousness, but one nicely
tempered by the sturdy arms which, according
to the advertising, gave the frames a 'masculine
look.'" While popular in the 1950s and 1960s,
Ray-Ban Wayfarer sunglasses attained the height
of their popularity from celebrities who favored
the style, from Audrey Hepburn in the 1961
movie Breakfast At Tiffany's to Tom Cruise
and Val Kilmer in Top Gun. Bob Dylan was hardly
ever seen not wearing his Ray-Ban Wayfarers
in the 1960s, and other notable personalities
who have been extensively photographed wearing
Ray-Ban Wayfarers include Marilyn Monroe,
John Lennon, James Dean, John F. Kennedy,
Roy Orbison, John Belushi, and Andy Warhol.
Ray-Ban
introduced a number of innovations in lens
technology over the years, and the Vintage
Sunglasses Shop has collected plenty of original
B&L Ray-Ban marketing materials from the
1940s onward. All vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses
feature "precision ground lenses polished
from crystal clear optical glass so they are
free from distortion or any other flaw."
Marketing material from the 1980s notes that
Ray-Ban frames "are meticulously from
specially alloyed metal or from plastics that
are used in prescription eyewear frames."
Among B&L's constant density lenses, the
Ray-Ban G-15 neutral gray lenses transmit
all colors equally so they retain their true
values, providing 85% visible light absorption
and 100% UV protection. Ray-Ban B-15 high
contrast brown lenses screen out blue light
to improve contrast and sharpen details, providing
85% visible light absorption and 100% UV protection.
Ray-Ban RB-3 green lenses feature absorption
balanced with the eye's sensitivity to colors
for peak acuity, with 71% visible light absorption
and 100% UV protection. The amazing Bausch
& Lomb Diamond Hard lenses are noted by
both the Ray-Ban logo and a diamond etched
in the glass of the lens and are virtually
scratch proof. Most authentic B&L Ray-Ban
lenses produced c mid 1950s and after have
a very small BL etched in the glass of the
lens near the hinge points of the sunglasses.
Ray-Ban sunglasses were marketed as "The
World's finest Sunglasses" which promoted
the company's experience over more than 100
years of manufacturing scientific optical
instruments. Quality control at the original
Ray-Ban was a top priority, with lenses made
from optical glass which had been "precision
ground and polished to be "free of waves
or any other defects that could distort vision
and cause eyestrain and fatigue." Ray-Ban gold frames feature gold electroplating,
sometimes with 10k, 12k, or even 24k gold,
and the process ensures that the gold is permanently
bonded to the core metal which was specially
alloyed for both strength and malleability.
It is important to note that Ray-Ban black
frames were known as "black chrome"
and similarly electroplated, so the black
finish is not an enamel which could chip or
wear off. A few of the most notable variations
of the Ray-Ban lens technology include Changeables,
photochromatic lenses which react to the sun's
brightness to protect your eyes, darkening
and lightening an amazing range of 75% range
depending on light conditions. Ray-Ban Kalichrome
shooter and outdoorsman sunglasses were yellow
lens shooters designed for shooting sports
conducted in hazy, foggy, and low light conditions.
The yellow lenses actually intensify light
and increase contrast, and wearing them on
bright sunny days might hurt your eyes a bit
but you will at least look cool. The shooter
design is similar to the aviator but sits
higher up on the face, and the space between
lenses is separated by a circular ring that
is referred to as the bullet hole, and it
has cable temples to give a secure fit for
active pursuits. Ray-Ban "smart"
Ambermatic
lenses adjust to the prevailing light. On
cloudy and overcast days, Ray-Ban Ambermatic
sunglasses are lightly tinted and amber colored
to cut through haze and sharpen vision. On
sunny, warm days they turn brown to block
the glare, and on sunny, cold days they change
to dark gray for superior protection from
direct and reflected glare.
We
are asked a lot about characteristics and
marks on real vintage Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses.
The aviator frame should be solid and sturdy
with de minimus wear to the gold plating regardless
of the age of the aviators. You can find vintage
aviators with the typi cal B&L Ray-Ban
gold plating as well as aviators which are
either 10k or 12k gold filled. In almost all
cases, the top of the frame at the nose bridge
will be marked with B&L Ray-Ban U.S.A.
sometimes followed by the frame and lens size
and sometimes followed with 10k GF or 12k
GF designations, all etched in the metal of
the frame. Most aviators will also have B&L
Ray-Ban USA inscribed in the frame below the
nose bridge as well depending on the design.
The small etched BL in the lenses near the
hinge points was not used in Ray-Ban sunglass
lens production until the late 1970s, and
the cursive white Ray-Ban trademark logo on
the lens was introduced in late 1982 and subsequently
present on all Ray-Ban sunglasses from 1983
onward.
Like
many higher end consumer items, Ray-Ban sunglasses
are extensively reproduced in Asia, so easily
that a simple google search will turn up Chinese
web sites selling many styles of fake Ray-Bans. At the Vintage Sunglasses Shop, we take
great care to vet every pair of vintage sunglasses
we sell for period authenticity. There are
various ways to identify fake Ray-Ban sunglasses
if one knows what to look for. If you buy
vintage sunglasses on auction sites, your
chances of buying a fake are not insignificant.
Ray-Ban
was acquired by the Luxottica conglomerate
in 1999, also now the owner of many of the
world's most famous brands of sunglasses including
Revo, Oakley, Oliver Peoples, Persol, Chanel,
Versace, DKNY, and more. In our view, the
quality of Ray-Ban sunglasses quickly declined
with corporate ownership and a blurring of
the lines with other Luxottica brands. While
the new styles are fine if you like them,
the Vintage Sunglasses Shop focuses its attention
on Ray-Ban styles and models produced c 2000
and earlier. The classic and eclectic frame
styles produced during this period coupled
with the most significant advances in B&L
lens technology easily explain why these vintage
Ray-Ban sunglasses styles usually sell for
higher prices than brand new Ray-Bans- even
in the exact same style.
Thanks
for visiting and shopping at the Vintage Sunglasses
Shop!
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